Professor David Tan and his collection of designer jackets
David Tan’s career in academia belies his deep passion for fashion.
Tan, who is Professor and Vice-Dean (Academic Affairs) at Faculty of Law, National University of Singapore, is especially fascinated with the design and construction of men’s blazers. He feels that there is a particular rigidity in the template associated with men’s blazers or suit jackets missing in women’s dresses.
To him, a designer needs significant creativity to depart from the traditional style or to distinguish himself from nondescript offerings. Options for expressing this individuality – with unusual prints, innovative fabrics, constrained deconstruction, embroidery or embellishments – also tend to be limited.
“I presently have 170 jackets and coats in my collection, most of them being runway looks. There have been many museum exhibitions on contemporary women’s fashion, such as Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, but hardly any on men’s fashion,” he says. “I started collecting blazers in a curatorial manner since about 15 years ago which I hope one day will be proudly shown in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Victoria & Albert Museum or the NGV in Melbourne,” says David, who also dabbles in fashion photography.
A special piece he’s collected is Gucci’s crystal cobra grosgrain Signoria tuxedo jacket made for Roger Federer’s 2017 Met Gala appearance, which he deems to be an iconic moment for men’s fashion. The Federer fan had specially ordered it in New York, and it was also his most expensive purchase at over $11,000.
Other rare pieces include two runway jackets from Alexander McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection (which was also his last), two jackets by Kris Van Assche for his final Winter 2018/19 collection for Dior Homme, one by Riccardo Tisci for his final Autumn/Winter 2017 collection for Givenchy, and one more by Hedi Slimane for his final Autumn/Winter 2016 collection for Saint Laurent.
Shop the look In January and June each year, I look at the runway collection on Vogue.com and send images of what I’d like to acquire to my buyers, who will subsequently send me close-up photographs of the jackets from the showrooms in Milan and Paris. I will then decide what to commit to purchase.
Local gems John Ching, a retail manager at Club 21 Men, has been instrumental over the last decade in helping me order the runway looks from Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Haider Ackermann and Dries Van Noten, including the melting ice jacquard wool suit from Alexander McQueen’s final collection before his death. I have worn it only once to a dinner at the two-Michelin-starred The Modern at MoMA New York.
Milestone momentos I also buy jackets to commemorate special occasions: When Federer won his 20th Grand Slam title at the Australian Open in January 2018, I bought the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2017 runway floral jacquard velvet jacket. When I was appointed Vice-Dean at NUS Law, I got carried away and bought three Dolce & Gabbana Spring/ Summer 2015 runway looks.
What’s next I’ve recently placed advanced orders at Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen. Dolce & Gabbana also transfers jackets from their Hong Kong store to Singapore for me.
Know thy limits So far, I have not spent more than $12,000 on a single blazer. I was contemplating a stunning jewel- and crystal-embroidered made-to-order Alexander McQueen at over $40,000 last year, but instead ended up donating to the Trinity College in Melbourne to establish the David Tan Visual Arts Studio. I guess the real limit may be physical space to store all my jackets in my apartment.
Regrets Hahaha! Only a handful… it is usually one of those “bargain blindness” moments when there is a 40 to 50 per cent discount, and I just spontaneously grab a runway piece because it’s on sale.
Any for sale? I have not sold any, although I would be happy to sell them to museums which have a genuine interest in collecting and archiving contemporary men’s fashionwear.
Storage solution I store my jackets in cupboards installed with electric dehumidifier rods that can warm, dry and circulate air in a con ned storage space. The rods are especially important to prevent mildew from growing on leather and natural fabrics.
Old is gold I can still wear my Jean Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana jackets from 25 years ago!
Photography: Mickey Wong
Art Direction: Audrey Chan
Hair & makeup: Sha Shamsi, using Ouai from Sephora & Dior makeup
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7sb7ErKuin5Wku621zZ5lnKedZMCoe8%2BepqmklWSxosLInWStmZ5isaa%2FyKClnqpdn66kt8Stqmg%3D